Dragonflies and Pestilence

You’d think by now I would avoid places with Khao in its name….Seriously, every time there is a Khao something happens….This one was no different. We left Phuket early in the morning to get up to Khao Sok National Park. I was kinda happy to leave Phuket…But that’s another story….Back to this one.

About an hour and a half into our drive we entered Khao Lak. I knew I had heard that name but couldn’t remember why. It was the Tsunami of 2004. We stopped at the National Tsunami Museum. A tiny two level building. There we saw photos, read the history, and watched videos….Completely heartbreaking. Personal accounts of the Tsunami and it’s aftermath…I had the most personal account right next to me. Sakai had been on the beach in Phuket when the tsunami hit there. I cannot even imagine how and what he must be thinking at this museum. It got to a point where I had to leave. Just couldn’t hear any more.

On we go. Back in the car. Next stop is our place for the night. Anuak Community Lodge nar Khao Sok. Took a bit to find the place. They don’t really believe in signs here. Helps keep tourists away. We get to our furnace, I️ mean hut, turn on the AC and leave. It better be an icebox in here when we get back!

Tubing down the river in Khao Sok National Park is our intention. By the time we get to the park and have lunch and some beers, it’s too late to go tubing. I wasn’t too disappointed as there has been so much rain that the river was probably too fast….So what do we decide to do? Yup you guessed it. A nice easy hike to see some waterfalls. About 4K away. Perfect. What could go wrong?

I️ ️ should have known by the smirk on the guards face as we signed in at the trailhead. “You come back 6:00” he said and giggled. Off we went. Nice well defined trail. Ok. This will be great. “Look!! Elephant tracks” Sakai says. “Fuck you” I say and we laughed. We passed some hikers on their way back. One told us there were monkeys 20 meters ahead. I️ have no idea how far 20 meters is, but there were no monkeys ANYWHERE.

We hiked for a bit and came upon a place to go swimming. Uh. No. No fucking way am I getting into that river. Who knows what is in there. Flashbacks to Khao Yai.. Sakai is yelling at me to get in the water NOW! As I was arguing that I wasn’t going to do it, two dragonflies appeared. Out of NOWHERE. Not one but Two! We hadn’t seen ANY. We both saw them and I said look! My parents are here. I knew then it was ok to get in. Of course I didn’t take my shoes off and I hung onto Sakai’s back for dear life. Was not about to touch the bottom. Ok, I️ admit, It was great. Nice cold water. We finish up and get out and continue to find the waterfall.

The sign said waterfalls to the left. Where? There is no trail….Fuck. Sakai is ahead of me. I have no choice but to follow. “Slippery” the next sign says. Fuck. Flashbacks to Erawan Falls. How many bruises am I gonna get this time? How many times am I going to fall? Shit. Now I’m climbing down rocks. It’s getting dark. Is it my glasses? Which by the way are getting so fogged up that I can’t see. Nope. It’s not my glasses. It’s getting DARK. Really? I’m SO NOT climbing on those rocks to get to the waterfalls. Not worth it. Sakai is yelling at me again to come on that we don’t have much time. We have to get back. Argh! Ok fine. We get to some water. Not waterfalls, just rushing water and rocks. Yeah I’m done. Sakai is trying to get me to go in the water with him. Nope. Not gonna happen. I look downstream and see what is headed towards us. Holy crap! Torrential rain. BOOM! CRACK! BOOM! OMG. Thunder and lightening too? Wonderful. “Relax” sakai says as he sees me huddling in a ball. I’m freaking out and say “this is me being completely relaxed”. Ok fine he says. We can head back. So up we go. Mud is rushing towards us as I climb up the slippery rocks not being able to see a thing as it’s raining so hard. Where the fuck is the trail? Fucking knee deep mud. I’m sure there are leaches in here. I can’t see a thing!

Eventually we get back to the main path which is now gushing down mud towards us. Covered in mud and other things, we continue back. At one point sakai stops and pulls a few leaches off of his legs. Wonderful. I don’t even care. I just want to get back. I screamed. Something just bit my leg. I can’t look. Don’t wanna know. Just keep going. My bag weighs at least 50 lbs now that it is soaking wet. I’m trying to tie my Turkish towel around me. It’s soaking wet and weighs a ton now. I can’t see. Why didn’t I bring a hat? Glasses and rain don’t mix. We are NEVER getting back. The thunder is closer now. The rain is harder. There is more mud coming towards us. Who knows what we keep sinking into. At one point you’ll never guess what happened. Yup. One of Sakai’s flip flops got stuck in the mud and broke. Again? Why can’t we ever just go on a normal leisurely hike???

On we go. We pass by the swimming hole, and I think we are almost back. Just a bit farther. We finally make it back and the guard has left his post. No one is there. He is probably somewhere laughing at the stupid white people who are caught in the storm. We get to the car and head up the road for some well earned beers. Laughing the entire way at what an amazing adventure that was.